Olympus Trip 35

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Olympus Trip 35

Lovely little camera, cute to Olympus design tradition. fits well into small and large hands, is lightweight, and simple to use. Little wonder that they are plenty of them out there. Almost a point-and-shoot camera. Settings are scant, the distance by estimate, ASA setup, and recommended aperture. By the light meter, the camera decides what shutter speed to use between 100 and 40, the only options. If insufficient light a red paddle pops over the viewfinder and the shutter does not fire. Note that the aperture activates when the shutter activates, else it stays at a closed position.

The innards are as simple. Two leaves, shutter and aperture. Of the five cameras that passed through my hands, four had seized aperture blades. The blades are moved by a tiny spring that is tiny and weak. In comparison, similar shutter blades are activated by the strong spring and click, even if dirty. It is easy to access and easy to repair; see below.

A very popular pocket camera, it had a long run between 1968 and 1988, with over 10,000,000 made. Easily found today in a working condition.


List number 1924
Brand Olympus
Model Trip 35
Manual Butkus
Bretts Caife
Format 35mm
Introduced 1968
Country Japan
Qty made 10,000,000
Initial price
Type Viewfinder, point and shoot
Body material Metal
Mode Auto, AP
Weight 425 gr,  Body with lens
Class average weight 410 gr,  Body with lens
ASA range 25-400
Kit lens 2,8/40
Lens make D-Zuiko
Filter size 43.5 mm
Lens mount Fixed lens
Mount size N/A
shutter Leaf
shutter make
Light meter Selenium, external, coupled
Winder Thumb dial
Lock No
Speeds 25-400
Mirror N/A
DOF preview No
Exposure lock No
Exposure compensation No
Shoe Hot
External sync X
Sync speed 40
Timer No
Battery N/A
Integral flash None
Service / repair links camerlog.com
More Lewis Collard
Ken Rockwell




Olympus Trip 35 service

Remove the bottom plate and release the black and yellow wires from the RH corner hold. This way the front barrel will be easy to maneuver.

Release the three pointed set screws to remove the front ring. The screws later fit into a groove on the barrel.

Remove front ring and unscrew the lens below, remember to mark lens position so will screw it back to same upon assembly. Remove three screws at the bottom.

Remove assembly via the next three screws to access the shutter leaves.

All the four cameras I have dissected needed aperture blade cleaned. The blades operate by a week hairspring that tends to wander around.

Soak in solvent, if needed a puff of graphite powder does wonders. Once the leaves close by the hairspring the work is done.

When you remove the barrel assembly a tiny steel ball may pop out. It goes between the adjusting disk and the lens, jumps into the holes to mark aperture stops.


Video showing the process at a very slow pace. 


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