Petri Color Corrected

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Petri Color Corrected

Petri did achieve neither prominence nor longevity, staying in business for about half of last century. Out of some 150 models offered by them, only a dozen or so are valued for over $200, and such is by McKeown’s, where I could not find another reference to confirm it.

The Petri F1.9 colour corrected super, and her sister, the F2.8, do not attract many followers as collector’s cameras. It is evident by their market prices, $45 and $30 respectively. It is a fairly boring camera, heavy for it’s size, with no special attributes to go poetic about. I am not sure about the ‘color corrected’ issue, as it is not mentioned at any other brand. Perhaps to attract buyers at the early colour days.

List number 8977
Brand Petri
Format 35 mm
Model 1.9 Color Corrected
Introduced 1960
Country Japan
Type Rangefinder
Body material Metal
Mode Auto / manual
Weight, gr 730 gr, with lens
ASA range NA
Kit lens 1.9/45
Filter size 42 mm
Lens mount Fixed lens
Mount size NA
Aperture 1.9-16
shutter Leaf
Light meter None
Winder Lever
Lock No
Speeds B.
DOF preview No
Exposure lock No
Exposure compensation No
Shoe Cold
External sync No
Sync speed NA
Timer No
Battery None
Battery style
Battery voltage NA

Petri color corrected 1.9 value
Petri color corrected 2.8 value

Petri color corrected super skin template

For all my sins I endeavour to keep records of cameras I have, but some fell between the cracks. This camera had appeared out of the blue sometimes in 2013, no record from where. When recorded it had been marked as dead on arrival. The only moving part was the rewind lever which does not count for much with camera functionality. it came up for attention in October 2016, some twenty months ago, when I knocked it to pieces and left it again. A couple of weeks ago I found the box containing the loose bones and embarked on a resuscitation mission.

As stated, nothing on the lens barrel moved. First I tried to get the main thread going. Couldn’t. Once cleaned found that bottom thread had a dent that puzzled me, as this could impair its movement, but the camera had been closed so it should dent have been created by an internal part. Looking deeper found a spacer missing, at a closer look broken.

Assume that once it came off it found a way to the bottom of the Helicoil and got stuck. The owner applied a force that ended with the damage. Once this had rendered the focusing dead, the camera was put out to pasture where thereafter all lubricants coagulated to a rock hard substance. What it really meant was that I had to soak the assembly in a solvent, which made it laugh. Some heat and some more force made the Helicoil move, so the inside thread had yielded and so did the next. It took a brass brush on a Dremel tool to remove the buildup on the thread, as well as filling out the damaged area, some grease and all had happily moved back and forth.

Once assembled, all individual parts clicked and hummed as new. However, once all put together it didn’t. Knocked it apart and reassembled. Same. Almost decided it has been jinxed, where I noticed that the centre ring on the spacer between the back rings that convey the shutter cock and release is too low and once assembled it presses against the shutter assembly. Cut a spacer of .8mm (1/32″) aluminium flat stock. The hole was not a big deal, clamped it between two masonite boards and finished with a step drill. The outside diameter finished with aviation snips. It isn’t perfect, but if you squint hard at a dim light it looks sort of round. Nevertheless, it did the trick, all now works.

After re-adjusting the distance lever all was put together with new front skin to match, a happy camera. It is much work on a $20 camera, but it was fun.

About skin, while on the Russian and the DDR cameras the skin pops off if you just stare at it, here the cover needed chiselling piece by piece. Think the Russian camera makers sold the glue in the black market as cameras could perform without it. Wonders of Communist industry.



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