Konica EE-Matic 260

In the late 1950s, the Japanese camera industry had graduated from the post-war plain models aimed at the 500,000 GI contingent stationed there. Most camera makers of that era promptly vanished once this market had dried up. A few stalwarts continued to make cameras for the emerging Japanese middle class and the newly discovered export market. Konishiroku, later Konica, was one of the few companies that were in the industry before WWII, and survived past the transition period. Their early models were box, folders and klapp style, with compact 35mm models as a mainstay in the 1950s.

In the 1960s, the industry had progressed into automatic models, with all remaining camera makers offering their own versions of that mode, be it rangefinders or SLR, covering both ends of the market.

Konica offered several lineups, including a luckluster family, the short-lived EE-Matic models. It seems the EE-Matic line was not popular in the West, as there is little information about it in print or online. Nonetheless, this line belongs to a time when Konica needed to rely upon market-specific distributors to rebrand its cameras, such as Foto Quelle / Revue in Germany and Wards in the US. Neither brand exists anymore, nor is Konica in the photography market.

The EE-Matic models were a confusing lot, all subscribed to the EE class, a newly minted buzzword that stood for Electric Eye. All were automatic, aimed at the entry-level photographer.

• EE-matic of 1963, a 35mm rangefinder, had a programme auto mode. Selenium meter surrounding the lens. Flashmatic mode, aperture changes per focusing distance. Also sold as Revue Auto-Matic and Ward’s XP500.
• The EE-Matic 260 followed in the same year, a similar model, but using an Instamatic type #126 cartridge. Also sold as Ward’s CP-301 and Ward’s 260.
• EE-Matic Deluxe of 1965, a rangefinder, back to 35 mm format. Still similar to the early model. A self-timer was added in later runs, sold under ‘Deluxe New’. Auto mode with a slenium meter. Also sold as Revue Auto-Matic Deluxe and Ward’s XP501.
• EE-Matic S, 1965, 35mm viewfinder camera. Easy loading system. Also sold as Ward XP400.
• EE-Matic Deluxe 2 of 1967, 35mm film rangefinder camera. Similar to the Deluxe, but the meter changed to CdS.
• EE-Matic Deluxe F of 1967, 35mm film, rangefinder camera. CdS meter. A fold-down flash reflector over a bulb socket and a Magicube mount. Also sold as Revue Auto-Matic Deluxe C

I use the term ‘Magicube’, while Konica named it ‘Exclusive Flash Cube’. I thought any cube by another brand would fit, but it doesn’t.

The model on my desk is the odd man out, the #126 format EE-Matic 260. I am not sure why Konica threw this model in, within a family of cohesive models. Konica wasn’t a fan of this format, with this camera being the first #126 model, followed in the early 1970s with a trio of Sakura Pak models that are not seen much today. Konika sold the #126 cartridges under Konipak.

The camera belongs to the upper echelon of that format, far from the early Kodak Instamatic models that looked and felt like an updated box camera. See more of its sisters. It looked and performed like a ‘real’ camera, but was simpler and more affordable.

• The top features:
  • A lever winder that pulls at approximately 180°, with about half of the movement being light and the rest against stronger resistance. To fully wind it, pull all the way. The first winding part pulls one frame, the second cocks the shutter and turns the Magicube, if loaded.
  • A Magicube socket is at about the same sightline as the lens.
  • No PC port or accessory shoe on this model.
  • No rewind button is available because the used section remains in the take-off part of the cartridge.
• The viewer is large and bright, at .6 magnification, so it shows a generous image area. A fixed parallax frame and a well-visible patch, although smaller than compatible models. A red paddle at the bottom will appear with underexposure.
• The back has a dial marked ‘eject’ that will pop out the Magicube. An elongated window in the middle will show the back of the cartridge, film speed and frame number.
• A side slider bolt will open the hinged back.
• Bottom has the threaded mount and battery door. It takes two AAA batteries, used to ignite the Magicube. Battery polarity is faintly marked on the contacts on the cover: closest to the cover hinge plus up, second plus down.
• The lens barrel carries the scant settings.
  • Closest to the body is the do-it-all dial. An ‘Auto’ position is marked in black, followed by a red flash icon and then red film speeds in ASA. Note that the ‘Auto’ and individual ASA values have stops/clicks, whereas the flash icon does not; it is there solely for informational purposes. The dial is supported by a finger rest for fast setting, which is odd, as I would assume you set it once per session.
  • Next is the focusing dial, here marked in feet. 3-4′ distances are red-marked, the rest in black.
• At the front end is the lens, surrounded by the selenium meter bubbles.
• To open the back, you’ll need athletic fingers and stout fingernails, or simply use a small screwdriver. To close, ensure that the lock slides down. Inside is a plain enclosure that takes the cartridge in only one way, leaving no room for errors. A pin in the hollow senses the film speed by a groove on the cartridge.

Camera use notes:

• In most scenarios, just set the first dial to Auto, and the camera does the rest.
• For flash use, set the first dial to the film speed. The shutter will default to 30.
• In both cases, the aperture will be set by the pre-programmed combination of film speed and distance.
• As per the above, the camera uses a crude auto mode. It is a pre-programmed setting combination that is governed by the film speed, distance, and the meter reading.
• There is no battery indicator or needle to verify if the battery or meter are alive.
• The camera would not fire with underexposure; a red dot shows at the bottom of the viewer.
• If the meter is dead or there are no batteries, the camera can still be used in flash mode. The shutter is set to 30, and the aperture changes according to the red-marked film speed settings on the first dial. However, I’m unsure what f value corresponds to the selected film speed. Guess takes sacrificing a roll to get an answer.
• As with the #135 cartridge, opening the back or removing the cartridge before it is entirely exhausted will kill the exposed section.
• Once the cartridge is done, a yellow paper strip will show at the back window, so it is safe to remove.

For the collector, it is a one-off model that was uncommon at the time. For the shooter, it is useless, so a pass.